Toby’s Christmas Safety Tips

December 14th, 2012

This is an old article that was published in the 2009 Christmas edition of the Boxer Rescue Ontario Newsletter, but the issues remain the same this year! Toby has become older and wiser since then, but we’re still mindful of the things that can be not so merry for dogs at this time of year. One question that is not answered here but that I’m asked often is how to introduce your family’s dogs to your own dog. This is most successfully done by meeting outside your home, usually about a block away, and walking the dogs together on leash. Once they seem comfortable, let them meet and get to know one another. It’s a also a good idea to pick up the things in your house that your dog may be a little possessive over, like toys or food bowls. If you’re unsure, it doesn’t hurt to keep the dogs attached by leash to their human, and a Smoochy Poochy umbilical leash is the easiest way to do it! Holidays are best when everyone gets along – including the dogs! Keeping them safe, and friendly, just makes everything that much more enjoyable!

Hi! Merry Christmas wiggles! My name is Toby and I’m a four year old Boxer. My Mom rescued me last August, and we have a great time together. So far, aside from walking, eating, playing with my toys and getting treats, my most favourite thing to do with Mom is this thing she calls Christmas. Last year, she told me all about this man named Santa! I never got to see him, but he must be a pretty cool guy because he brought me MORE treats, MORE toys AND he brought stuff for my Mom too! What a nice guy – he’s never even met me and he knows exactly what I like! I can’t wait until he comes again this year! This Christmas thing was just a pain before with all the new rules and tempting things, but now that Santa comes for ME, it all pays off!
The best part about Santa is that he wraps up my new presents in this special paper – and Mom lets me tear it apart and make a huge mess! She says I can have fun with it, but only if I only do it on this special day called Christmas. Mom says Santa gets this special paper without any of the toxins or dyes that might make my tummy upset, and that he gets it at this place called the SPCA, or some of the doggy grocery stores we go to. I can have regular wrapping paper too, but Mom has to be really careful that I don’t eat it. The stuff Santa brings for Mom has this pretty string on it called ribbon, but Mom keeps her wrapping and ribbons in a bag on the table because she keeps saying it’s not a toy and that I might choke on it. Maybe one day I can have ribbons for Christmas! They look so shiny and fun to play with! But Mom still says no and hides it out of my reach. Maybe one year Santa will bring me thumbs to grab stuff off the table with….
Before Christmas, Mom gets presents from a special early Santa for all the other humans, and she hides those too in case I wreck them. She’s always telling me about this stuff that looks like snow cookies called ‘styrofoam’, and that it could make me choke or be sick. Sometimes when the humans come over, they eat and drinks lots of cookies and smelly water, and they can get kinda loud and annoying. Some of the humans feed me their cookies, but they make my tummy sick, so Mom always says “no cookies for the dog!” and makes sure that no one comes into my room. I just stay in my room and watch from there sometimes because it’s a lot quieter, no one steps on my toes and it’s not so tempting to eat those fancy treats that are everywhere. That can be hard to pass up when you’re on a special diet like me!
Some of the humans bring my dog friends over to play with me. My friend Tyson showed me these weird things that look like little snakes, and at the other end of them are these pretty little lights in lots of different colours. Tyson likes to chew on them, but Mom says they’re called ‘electrical cables’, and she tries pretty hard to hide them behind the couch and stuff so that me and Tyson don’t play with them. She says we will get ‘electrocuted’, and whenever she puts out the cables before Christmas, she doesn’t leave me alone in the same room with them and I have to stay in my room when she goes out. Tyson also showed me how to jump up on the kitchen counter and grab the good human treats. His Mom gates off the kitchen when she’s playing with the other humans so that he can’t do that, and when my Mom caught us she moved most of the treats into the fridge, put some of them into containers we couldn’t get open, and moved the rest to the very back of the counter so we couldn’t get at them. Tyson was mad, but I didn’t care. At Christmas they eat lots of this brown stuff that smells really good, but every time I eat it Mom takes me to see Dr. Smith and he says I have chocolate poisoning and then he makes me throw it back out. It’s kinda yucky that way and Mom tells me after that I spent all my allowance at Dr. Smith. Believe me, it’s not the best way to spend your allowance!
Christmas time is sort of mean though too. I have to pass this special test where Mom brings the bathroom into the living room! For weeks there’s this big tree just staring at me begging me to go pee on it, and Mom says I can’t! It must be a special kind of tree, because it’s got all these shiny balls on it, just like the ones I play with outside! But every time I come within a foot of the tree, Mom says ‘leave it’ and I have to listen so that she’ll say I‘m a good boy. If I don’t leave it alone, she’ll come and make me lie down somewhere else, and sometimes I’d really rather just wander around. Besides, Mom practices these words like ‘leave it’ with me all year, so I pretty much understand and it’s just easier to do what Mom says. Might even get a cookie for it!
Even though I can’t go near the tree and play with the toys on it, and I can’t pee on it, and I can’t eat all the good food, and all these humans come and bug me, Mom makes it better when she lets me go into my own room and get some peace and quiet, and Santa makes it WAY better ‘cause be brings me so much cool stuff! I think I’m starting to figure this out! Mom says she talked to Santa and I’m getting some really great new toys this year! Just 30 more big sleeps and 120 meals and 60 walks and 422 naps till he gets here again! Wiggle bum! Wiggle bum! Merry Christmas everyone!

Share

Nutrition Advice – is it making our dogs sick?

December 10th, 2012

I write each of my blogs with the hope that it will entertain and educate the reader, and ultimately improve the lives of dogs whose owners are so dedicated as to endeavor upon a journey of learning about their dog’s behaviour and nutritional requirements. I try not use this blog space as a spouting ground for the things in the dog world that annoy, frustrate or disappoint me. But, every once in a while, something impacts me enough that I not only need to write about it to alleviate some of my own frustration, I also need to write about it so that others in the dog community can help to bring an end to the forces that work against our dogs. It’s easy for me to say that the path of punitive and invasive training is what pains me most, and I created a Foundation wherein people can learn and begin to move toward change in that arena. Today’s topic comes a close second, and it is the misleading and quite frankly dangerous world of nutrition advice.

I recently visited a dog, a lovely 8 year old Airedale Terrier, who has been assuaged by allergies for nearly two years now. His person, an experienced and loving dog owner, has done her very best over the past two years to follow her vet’s advice, seek out information, and work to make life a little easier for her poor boy. His allergies are, and have been, so severe that his entire body is covered in a white, oily, pungent bacteria, he is incredibly itchy, and of course very uncomfortable. He’s also lost approximately 4kg, and is considerably underweight despite all her attempts to provide the best nutritional care for him, based on the information provided to her. Finally, after a recent visit to her vet where he essentially threw his hands in the air in surrender, she decided to contact me for some advice.

Before I go on, I’d like to clarify that I have a profound respect for veterinarians. They are practitioners, pharmacists, surgeons, practicing on multiple species further complicated by patients who cannot speak. Quite frankly, I think they far outperform our own medical doctors, and I am forever in the debt of a few vets who have brought my ‘kids’ back from the brink. But, in my opinion, there is a flaw in the educational system for vets, and while nutrition should be a major part of their schooling given that it is the foundation of good health, the information provided to them throughout university is lacking, and that which is provided is done so via kibble manufacturers who present biased information. Certainly, there are vets who embark on their own educational improvements in nutrition, and can offer excellent advice in this realm for both healthy and sick dogs – but sadly, for many this is not the case. Having worked in a clinic myself, I know how busy a vet’s life can become, and how easy it is to be provided information by a pet food company about a kibble designed to compliment a specific health issue and simply include that food as part of the protocol. Their focus is on no less important things, but in my opinion, not on the reality of what these diets can do (or not do) to a dog’s physical well being.

The Airedale was prescribed a veterinary vegetarian blend and was being fed this food for approximately 18 months. The intention being that if the dog was reacting to an animal protein, the food which contained no animal protein would eliminate the allergy. The food’s first three ingredients, in order, are oat flour, rice and potato protein. The food appears to contain small amounts (listed well down the ingredient list) of carrot pomace and tomato pomace – the only sign of vegetable, despite the name of the kibble. When that didn’t work, the vet then prescribed another veterinary diet in the Hypoallergenic line. The first ingredients (and only actual food-like ingredients) are starch, soy protein isolate, and vegetable oil.

How any company claiming to be promoting the better health of dogs can produce a food with these ingredients and expect a dog to glean any nutrition from it is something I cannot even fathom. This dog was expected to live on this kibble, and in the case of allergies ONLY this kibble in case of contaminating the diet with other foods, for a considerable portion of it’s life. Starch and soy are nowhere close to meeting the nutritional requirements of a carnivorous animal, not to mention the fact that these three simple ingredients are not even considered to be human grade (meaning that pet food companies use ingredients that are not fit for human consumption, often discarded waste of human food processing).

It is also astonishing to me that these companies, and those who promote them, have not seen the research supporting the idea that the most likely cause of a food intolerance or allergy in a dog is grain! Many, many dogs who suffer the symptoms of allergies improve dramatically when switched to a grain free food. This is not to say that all allergies can be attributed to grain – certainly not – but if it was very likely that your dog’s allergies may be resolved by simply removing grain from the diet, wouldn’t that be the simplest first approach? Yet most veterinary line “hypoallergenic” diets on the market are almost entirely comprised of grain!

The subject of quality and responsibility in the pet food marketplace is a subject that I expound upon for several hours in my nutrition seminars, so I’ll limit myself here. Perhaps this short blog will lead you to investigate further, to read another wonderful blog by veterinarian Dr. Karen Becker (link below), or to read Ann Martin’s powerful book about how pet food is made called Food Pets Die For.

We can do better by the animals who give us their love and trust. Much, much better. Please, do some research (that hasn’t been done by a pet food company or a group that sells food), ask questions, and READ THE LABEL.

Dr. Becker’s blog about veterinary diets:

http://healthypets.mercola.com/sites/healthypets/archive/2012/12/05/nutritionists-promote-pet-food-brands.aspx

The first food mentioned in this blog:

http://www.royalcanin.ca/index.php/Veterinary-Products/Canine-Nutrition/Veterinary-Therapeutic-Formulas/Hypoallergenic-HP-Dry

The second food mentioned in this blog:

http://www.purinaveterinarydiets.com/Product/HAHypoallergenicDogFood.aspx

Share

Dear Santa Paws (Holiday Shopping List)

December 1st, 2012

Dear Santa Paws,
(from Toby the flashy fawn Boxer that lives with his person Erica)
This year I think I was an exceptionally good boy. I even trained my Mum to type for me and say big words like exceptionally. Also I promise if you come this year I won’t eat all your cookies before you get here. I can’t make any promises about Rudolph’s treats though so maybe you better bring some extra.

This is what I’d like for Christmas this year and I’m going to share. My Mum tries to help other dogs all year and I think I should too because I have it pretty good here. So not all of it is for me I promise. My Mum also wants you to make a special visit to the foster homes for the rescues to bring extra toys and treats, and she said checks for money would be good too but I don’t know why Santa would check for money there.

So anyway, here’s all the good stuff for the list (really I just want some cheezies, so Mum wrote the rest):

GoDog plush toys – available at this time of year in gorgeous Christmas styles, or all through the year in cute animal versions like cows, sheep and dragons. This toy is made of a special fabric and stitching that is not harmful to your dog, and it is very difficult to chew through. I’ve tested these toys in multi-dog homes, with large and small dogs, and cannot believe their endurance. They come with lots of squeakers, different sizes, and varying shapes to please any dog!

Kong Wobbler – no dog’s home is complete without a classic Kong. But the Kong Wobbler is a twist on tradition that provides a different sort of challenge and can entertain your dog for hours. It looks like a classic Kong with a harder shell, and a small hole in the side to release your choice of treats. The top screws off for filling, and the base is sealed with sand inside to make it bottom heavy, so your dog needs to push it around with his paws or nose to get it to land in just the right spot to get a treat out. While it’s a great self-entertaining toy, it’s also a wonderful way to teach your dog not to use his teeth, and you should monitor your dog at first to be sure that he doesn’t attempt to crack it open (though that won’t happen easily – this is one tough toy!).

Seat Belts – keeping your dog safe in the car is something we should all be doing all year round. Unfortunately, seat belts for dogs are not yet required to be tested under the Canadian Safety Association, but some have been privately crash tested. They come in varying styles to suit your dog and your vehicle set up, and vary widely in price so shop around. They not only protect your dog from flying forward in an accident, they also help prevent accidents by stopping your dog from obstructing your view or creating a distraction by moving around all over your vehicle.

Smoochy Poochy Products – likely the best collars and leashes I’ve ever come across! New this year is their 8 foot umbilical leash, allowing for extra girth around our own waists when wearing bulky winter clothing. They also come with handy little bag dispensers, a grab handle near the collar clip, and are made of durable nylon. I’ve never been so pleased with a leash in all my life, and will never use anything but! And they are a Canadian Company!

2HoundsDesign Collars – probably some of the most beautiful collars you’ll ever see. They are particularly nice on large breed dogs, and come in 1.5” width providing extra comfort around your dog’s neck if he happens to pull on the leash. Some of my friends (but not me, oh no not me!) have developed a bit of an addiction to these gorgeous pieces and have quite the collection for all seasons and holidays!

Chilly Dogs Coats – as many of you know, I have a Boxer and do extensive work with Boxer Rescue, and these are the only coats I’ve found that keep their barely covered bodies warm in Canadian winters! The Great White North coat is wonderful for days in the snow, and the Chilly Sweater is perfect for at the cottage or milder walks through town. You’ll also find neck warmers, rain coats, and other great products for any breed of dog! They come in an array of colours and fits, and the owner requests measurements of your dog that ensure a perfect fit (even for broad shoulder dogs, which are impossible to fit!). Also, a Canadian Company!

Z-Bones – a great way to clean your dog’s teeth without all the harmful ingredients included in most dental chew bones. Made by Zukes (who also makes Mini Naturals, a great training treat), they come in different sizes and flavours to please any breed, and do a great job freshening your dog’s breath for all the holiday visitors!

Many of these products are available in pet stores, particularly Global Pet Foods in Oakville (mention my name when you shop there and I’ll make a donation to rescue!), or online. Please remember at this time that there are many pets in rescues and shelters that won’t make it to their forever home for the holidays. Food, toys, treats, blankets, crates, and coats are always welcome donations, and of course even a monetary donation of $5 can make a difference. Boxer Rescue Ontario is currently doing a penny drive and a volunteer will even come to your home to pick up your soon to be obsolete pennies, and they also collect Canadian Tire money to help pay for gas to transport dogs and to provide needed supplies such as food bowls, toys and crates for dogs in foster care. If you’d like to make a donation to any rescue and aren’t sure what to donate or where, please contact me and I’d be happy to help you decide!

I wish all of you a very Merry Christmas, Happy Chanukah, or just a wonderful holiday season with friends and family – and most importantly, your fur family! My most favourite gift of all is the one I receive all year long – the joy of owning Toby. At Christmas, I’ll be sure to show him just how much I love and appreciate him!

Share

Freak on a Leash – Why Dogs become Leash Aggressive

November 13th, 2012

Leash aggression is probably the most common complaint that I hear from people about their dogs when it comes to aggression issues. In addition to that, if I had a penny for every time I heard “it’s funny, he’s totally fine when he’s off leash, but as soon as we go for a walk on leash, he goes crazy!”, well, my favourite rescue would be rich!

I’m currently working with a beautiful, 2 year old Boxer boy named Jersey. He adopted his Mom Cathy in June of this year, and she contacted me within of few days of bringing him home. When I arrived, not only did I see Jersey have a freak out (and that’s a technical term folks) when another dog walked up the opposite sidewalk, Cathy also showed me how one side of her body was totally black and blue from Jersey turning on her. This is a behaviour called redirected aggression, wherein the dog will react to a stimulus (usually another dog), and will turn on the person holding the leash, the dog he is walking with, or basically whoever is closest to him. Not only was Jersey a threat to other dogs (introductions on leash had not gone well), he was also dangerous to Cathy. This required some serious intervention.

The funny thing about Jersey, and actually most dogs with leash aggression, is that he can play wonderfully with dogs so long as he isn’t attached to the leash. He has dog friends over in his backyard 3 or 4 times per week, sometimes up to 3 dogs at a time, and has never had an issue with any of them. He greets new dogs nicely, he adjusts his play style depending on the breed, and can even share treats and toys with multiple dogs without any reaction. This has formed an important part of his rehabilitation, and he continues to have several puppy play dates per week.

So the question is, what does Jersey have an issue with? Other dogs, or the leash? This example, and many others, prove that the majority of leash reactivity issues are directly related to the leash – not to dogs specifically (though dogs that are reactive to humans, on or off leash, may have different issues are should immediately be seen by a professional). In addition, leash reactivity is a learned behaviour that is often taught in response to a young dog who begins to be excitable when another dog approaches on walks, and in an effort to control the dog, the owner is actually causing the dog to develop reactivity issues. This is most commonly the result of aversive equipment like prong/pinch collars, choke collars or inappropriately used martingale collars, but can also result from something as simple as a strong verbal correction (“No!! Leave it!! Bad!!”).

As you’ve learned in my other blogs, dogs (in simplified terms) learn by association. Dogs produce a Sit behaviour so reliably because it is so often followed by a desirable result (reinforcement), like getting fed, getting a treat, or getting to go out for a walk. This premise applies with punishment as well, except it is much more challenging for the dog to figure out exactly what they are being punished for, and they can easily make the wrong association. If the common denominator in a situation where the dog is punished is always the oncoming dog, they will believe that they are being punished because a dog is approaching them. Even though the owner believes that these corrections are clearly being delivered because the dog is getting excited and jumping around, unless that dog did exactly the same reaction in exactly the same place and was punished at exactly the same point each time, it’s difficult for them to ascertain what specifically the feedback is for. In the example of Sit, it’s pretty clear to the dog that when they put their bum on the floor, good things happen – it’s a simple action for a dog to recognize and an owner to reinforce with good timing. If you think about the last time your dog acted out (negatively or positively) on leash with respect to an oncoming dog, consider how many physical behaviours he demonstrated inside that small amount of time. Also consider how many different ways you’ve responded to your dog when he does that, and then from the dog’s perspective, try to figure out exactly which thing is the same every time. Well, every time, there was a dog coming towards you.

The dog will quickly develop a method of communication that will attempt to keep the oncoming dog away from him, because in his mind, the closer the other dog gets the more he gets in trouble. Yet, in most settings, the dog is not able to keep that dog from approaching him, because the oncoming owner is innocently continuing on their walk. Following that, the opposing dog will eventually go away – again, because that owner is simply continuing his walk – so in the dog’s mind, his communications to that dog have finally been effective. In the dog’s mind, it goes like this “I’m on a walk, this is great! Look, there’s a leaf! Gotta pee, gotta pee, peed on a fire hydrant! Wait a minute – is that a dog I see? OMG it’s a dog! My Mom HATES other dogs!!! She’s gonna yell at me! And I’m stuck on this leash so I can’t get away from her, and I can’t do what SHE wants and get away from this dog!! Grrrr….dog go away!! Bark – get away my Mom will yell at me if you get closer!! Stop approaching – I’m getting yelled at because you’re coming closer!! Grrr!! This is awful now you’re right in front of me!!! Get away!! …..ahhh ok you’re going away now. Oh thank goodness that’s over. Phew – well at least my barking and lunging was effective and made that dog go away and Mom stopped yelling at me. Next time I’ll have to yell louder so he goes away faster….”

Funny as it may sound, it’s actually quite a frightening experience for the dog. The behaviour of communicating to the other dog to go away (what we call leash reactivity, or leash aggression) is so important to them, they will even perform the behaviour regardless of how harsh the corrections become, and this is why so many people report that the prong collar works but only for a couple of months or so. Dogs will work through a great deal of aversion if it results in the oncoming dog going away. Forcing the dog into greeting the oncoming dog, or forcing them to repeatedly pass other dogs and increasing correction, will reinforce the dog’s belief that aggressive responses result in the elimination of their problem – the other dog leaves. However, because dogs operate on a fight or flight response, this theory also explains why so many dogs are fine off leash. They have never made the association of collar jerking, an owner getting their face and shouting, or even a painful stimulation from a collar, with greeting a dog in an off leash area. They are very much aware of the fact that they are not being physically controlled in these situations, that they are free to make a choice about how they interact with the dog, and they have never learned that off leash greetings result in a very angry owner. This is a key distinction, and a major part of the rehabilitation process in leash aggression.

Some trainers will attempt to control the leash aggressive dog by increasing the corrections and getting the dog to ignore the oncoming dog, or sit when a dog appears. When this is effective, what is in fact happening is the dog shuts down completely and hence doesn’t respond, but is still feeling the same fear and aversion to dogs that he did before this new training began. This can be quite dangerous, and in fact results in a dog becoming a time bomb – eventually, he will not feel overwhelmed by the handler, or the oncoming dog will feel so threatening that he has to lash out. Often, the handler is not expecting this because they feel the dog’s issues have been resolved, and the dog either overpowers the owner and gets away, or the owner attempts a greeting and the dog bites the oncoming dog.

The most effective way of resolving this issue is changing how the dog feels about being on the leash in the first place. If he learns that being on leash no longer results in being frustrated, confused, overwhelmed and often in pain, the desire to stave off other dogs approaching is no longer necessary. When the dog begins to believe that other dogs mean GOOD things will happen, he will actually welcome other dogs approaching! In essence, you have not only eliminated the reactive behaviours that are really what upset the owner, you have eliminated the dog’s need to react at all. You have accomplished a well mannered, happy-to-be-on-leash dog who does not behave because he is physically controlled, but behaves because he feels no need not to! Unless significant changes occur in the dog’s life and the corrections return, this behaviour modification will be permanent, will be present for any person (including children and elderly) walking the dog, and most importantly, mean that you have caused the bond and level of trust with your dog to increase, rather than deteriorate as happens with heavy correction training.

Jersey is coming along well in his training, and is now beginning to learn that when he sees a strange dog on the street, what he is supposed to do is turn and look at Cathy for instruction, and be reinforced for a very appropriate behaviour. Instead of barking, lunging, and biting at her, he is instead walking calmly by her side and looking at her. Doesn’t that sound like a much nicer way to walk your dog?

Reversing leash aggression is a lengthy process that needs to begin with very basic desensitization to the leash. Please contact a positive training professional for help with this work!

Share

Cassi’s Way – How Training is Killing our Dogs

September 17th, 2012

This blog is not just about training; it’s intention is not to teach you how to solve a particular behaviour problem, or how to know if you have a specific issue to address with your dog. This blog is the result of years of picking up the pieces behind other professionals, and hearing time and again from my clients ‘I just wanted to do the right thing for my dog, and even though I didn’t really want to be doing the things my trainer told me to do, he/she was the professional, and I had to just trust them’. This good intention, coupled with a professional trainer who doesn’t really explain why their methods work, has created hundreds upon thousands of dogs with behaviour issues far worse than what they began their training with, and sadly, well meaning owners actually teaching their dogs to be aggressive, fearful, and anxious. I believe in my heart of hearts that certain training methods are actually killing our dogs, teaching behaviours that can become so dangerous and unmanageable that the dog needs to be euthanized. Every client I’ve had has hired me solely because they love their dog and desire a more harmonious relationship with them, and I know that dog owners who seek out training truly believe that what a trainer tells them is in their dog’s best interest. So, I’m sharing this story with you today to help you, and your dog, with that journey, in hopes that it will inspire you to do what could save your dog’s life – ask your trainer WHY and HOW their methods work. I truly hope that if the answer leads you to believe that it will work by intimidation, pain, or fear mongering, that you will seek another solution.

It’s pretty rare that I encounter a dog who doesn’t know how to ‘sit’. It happens, but usually that dog has a darn good reason, like being from a puppy mill and having never had any training. But, most dogs raised in a home know this cue well. Why? Because it’s one of the first words we all want to teach our puppies, and because we often teach it at an early age, immediately followed by a treat, a happy dance, or something that makes the dog really happy. Therefore, the dog has a reliable sit. This is a good example of how dogs learn, in a sort of simplified way. It hears the word ‘sit’, it puts it’s bum on the floor, and something good is likely to happen – even if it only hears ‘good boy’ every 100 times it sits as an adult. It is also, however, the same learning theory that applies to dogs who have learned to be terribly aggressive, sometimes so much so that they need to be euthanized. Science shows us that less than .1% of dogs who are aggressive are born with aggression, due to some type of brain abnormality, which also tells us that 99.9% of aggressive dogs are so because they were taught to be. The majority of my clients have dogs with aggression issues, and no, they are not fighting dogs or protection trained dogs. They are the dogs next door to you, they are your friends’ dogs, they are ‘normal’, everyday pets who have learned dangerous behaviours; and training is killing these dogs. Many of them.

I see cases like this every day, and I see dangerous dogs turn into good dogs everyday. But, there are also some dogs who have been so badly damaged by training that they cannot be saved. This is the story of one dog who lost her battle, a dog named Cassie. She was humanely euthanized on June 29th, 2012, and the memory of her has been with me ever since. My heart swells with the thought of her, the potential she had, and the damage that was done to her by well meaning owners, and trainers they trusted. She is not alone in her plight, and I’m writing this story so that her death is not in vain; so that her story may save the life of even one dog who is suffering under the guise of ‘dog training’.

Cassie began her life in a suburban town with a family of four. Having had dogs before, they unfortunately decided to skip puppy school and do training on their own in the home. Vets always advise us not to take our puppies anywhere until they have all their shots, but it creates a huge gap in early socialization, which is why puppy school and the opportunity to socialize with dogs of similar age is crucial to a dog’s social well being later on in life. At around 9 months of age, the owners noticed that Cassi was getting overly excited about other dogs while on leash, so they brought a trainer into their home to help gain control of this behaviour. The trainer told them that Cassi needed to learn respect for them, and had them begin using a prong collar while on walks, combined with a leash correction, and a strong verbal ‘NO!’, when other dogs approached and Cassi got excited. So now, based on what I’ve told you about how dogs learn, what did she learn from this? That other dogs mean something bad and painful is about to happen. She quickly developed anxiety around other dogs, and by 14 months of age, had still never played with another dog, had developed a fear of her family rather than ‘respecting’ them, and tried to find new ways to stop the corrections and the pain.

She’d make herself small, avoiding eye contact, lowering her ears, looking anywhere but where the pain came from. This is a normal response to something that frightens a dog – they avoid it as opposed to confronting it, in hopes that it will go away. Eventually, though, they begin to weigh the fear versus the pain, asking ‘is it more effective for me to lash out, trying to make this dog go away to avoid even more pain’, and hence the owner’s corrections need to become stronger, causing increased pain, usually getting more into her face with a louder and harsher ‘NO!’, as they were instructed to do by the trainer that they had put their faith into. The same cycle begins again, and the dog attempts to cower and avoid in hopes that this option will end the fear and pain of being on leash outside. It’s also important to note that most of the dog walking responsibilities fell upon the young tween boys of the home, so her interactions with them were more often than not moments of dominating control and painful communication often beginning, as instructed, before she even glanced at the oncoming dog. (meanwhile, not being given the option to acknowledge the other dog and react appropriately. These corrections are often instructed to be given before the dog has an opportunity to respond, without knowing if the dog has even learned to respond differently based on the training).

The owners believed that Cassi was doing these things, like shrinking away and looking down, to be stand-offish, as opposed to being appeasing. They had had enough of her bad behaviour. Cassi was then sent away to a training facility for 12 weeks. She was trained individually by a lead trainer and several of the young men in the facility. In order to counteract her ‘bad behaviour’, which was in fact fear and anxiety around boys and dogs, the trainer taught her to conform to standard obedience, mostly ‘sit’ and ‘lie down’. She taught this by using a prong collar, using very firm commands, rolling the dog on her back if she didn’t respond, and by teaching her to strictly tolerate the situations she was uncomfortable in. Simply put, Cassi was taught to sit perfectly still and stare at the thing (boys or dogs) that terrified her the most, and that if she strayed from this obedience in any way, such as avoiding eye contact, she would be very harshly corrected by the collar. Based on what I’ve said about learning theory, you can now see that not only are the scary things in her life still very scary, but any attempt to avoid these things would result in a painful correction. So, in Cassi’s mind, she remains terribly afraid, and she can’t move at all in fear of very harsh punishment. Near the end of 12 weeks, when pushed even further into the face of a dog or any male person in order to ‘advance training’, she resorted to her only remaining option – growl in an attempt to make it go away. As a result, the trainer deemed Cassi ‘untrainable’. But hadn’t the trainer taught Cassi that the only option she had left was to growl at the scary thing in hopes it would go away? In fact, the trainer began to heavily correct Cassi for growling too – so what does this dog believe she has left to protect herself? The silent bite. A trainer should never teach a dog not to growl, because it simply eliminates your warning that the dog is about to bite. In fact, the trainer should have used techniques that taught the dog she didn’t have to be afraid in the first place, therefore eliminating all the behaviours that come with it.

Cassi was surrendered to rescue at that point, and I began working with her. I found the most dangerous thing about her was her appearance of safety. A person could approach, and she would automatically sit and look up at that person, as if she were being polite. But if you were the handler, you could visibly see her shaking, hear her very low growl, and be practically blanketed in her fear. If that person reached for her, she’d lunge and try to bite in an extremely aggressive way. The same would apply to dogs; though she appeared safe to other dogs’ owners, to parents, to children, because she sat so nicely, she was in fact a ticking time bomb.

For close to one year, we worked hard with Cassi using desensitization techniques, counter conditioning, pairing scary events (at low level intensity) with really delicious treats, happy distractions and meaningful cues, which are very standard positive training methods used to get at the source of the fear and show the dog that they don’t need to be afraid, hence eliminating the dog’s behavioural issues. We could never ask her to sit or down, because she’d immediately begin to shake with fear (the second trainer had paired the sit/down cues so many times with painful corrections, she immediately became fearful upon hearing the word). We were able to get her to relax with certain people (like myself, and her foster parents), in certain ‘safe’ areas, but in the world beyond her front door, she was extremely dangerous, and even with years of work, would have lived her life in absolute fear of everything around her, and as an extremely dangerous dog if she were ever to get out without her handler.

Cassi spent the last year of her life with foster parents who loved her dearly, with a positive trainer who refused to give up on her, and with the tools and techniques needed to create real learning. But the damage done to her by the previous training techniques was too great, and the fear and stress she lived with every time she went outside was so overwhelming, it was inhumane. At home, Cassi loved to cuddle, she loved to play with toys, she wiggled and danced when her foster parents came home from work and when I came to visit her. The people she grew to know well she treated kindly, and in her own home had a joy for life that would bring a tear to your eye. In foster care, she knew love and trust and happiness for the first time. Outside, she had been turned into a dangerous, almost wild animal. The only reason for that? Training. Her owners wanted to do right by her in the first place by having a trainer come in, and had the right one come, I wouldn’t be writing this story. But the trusted professionals in her life, well known and experienced, used old fashioned, correction based, dominance model training, and together, the techniques they used ultimately led to not only a life of fear, but her death.

Many of you will ask me who these trainers were so that you can avoid them. Unfortunately, knowing their names won’t help you. Finding out how a trainer trains is what is important – there are hundreds of trainers available, and I couldn’t tell you all the good ones and the bad ones. But if you ask questions about their techniques before you hire them, you’ll be in a better position to move forward positively with your dog. Please join me, and support my new group, Cassi’s Way (www.facebook.com/cassisway), to help bring awareness to all dog owners about how the many training techniques work, what and how they teach your dog, and if they are right for you. The most important question you can ever ask a trainer is “WHY will this technique work”? If the answer includes fear, pain, or dominance – think of Cassi. Please share this blog, share the page for Cassi’s Way, and contribute to the conversation that MUST begin to happen if we are to save our dogs from a life like Cassi’s.

Share

Teaching your dog to walk to heel

March 5th, 2012

I’m pretty sure that the phrase “if you give them an inch, they’ll take a mile” was coined after dogs. Dogs are opportunists, and if they think there is a chance they can get away with something that is in their best interests, they’ll take it. Leash walking is one of the most common examples of this , and usually results in the owner purchasing any array of equipment possible to stop this. You might need special equipment with a large or strong dog, but you’re only going to need for a week. Why? Because equipment was invented to assist with training, not to replace it.

Teaching your dog to walk to heel is pretty simple – you don’t need to run around trees, you don’t need jerk your dog around, and you certainly don’t need to inflict pain. You do need a lot of patience during that week of training, and you need to be persuasive in ensuring that all members of the family who walk the dog follow this program too. It’s called red light green light, and it works – so well it’s scientifically proven. It works like this – and if you read my last blog about learning theory, this will make perfect sense – moving forward is the dog’s reward, stopping is the dog’s punishment. So, if your dog’s leash is slack and he can see your foot when it is furthest forward, you can keep moving. The moment he moves beyond that range, you stop, allow your dog to calm, then take another step. With dogs who’ve dragged their owners for years, this will take a little longer. With puppies and rescues (with a brand new handler), success will occur very quickly. The dog will soon learn that at absolutely no time is he permitted to tighten the leash – and if he does, the reward of moving forward is taken away, and he is punished by having to stop moving forward. The trick is to work this the entire time your dog is on leash – he cannot pull you down your driveway, pull you towards his favourite neighbour, pull you towards another dog, or pull you because you don’t have time to do the training that morning. If you are consistent, calm, and more persistent than your dog, this method is guaranteed to work, and quickly. The dog will learn to do this only with the person who teaches him, so everyone who walks him needs to do the same training with the same persistence. The stop should be immediate, with no words, leash corrections or any other strange combination of yelling/jerking/running around in circles is required.

Now, there are dogs out there that can be hard to stop! The goal is to stop without taking another step forward, and without being dragged, which is where equipment can come in handy. Again, dogs learn quite simply, i.e. in this situation, good things happen (walking beside my owner), and in this situation, bad things happen (walking ahead results in stopping the walk!! Aww!!!). This applies to meeting dogs as well, and this is how we often teach our dogs to be leash aggressive. Equipment that uses pain as a source to train, such as prong collars and shock collars, result in your dog learning that every time he encounters another dog and gets excited to say hello, he experiences a terrible biting pain to the throat. It is not a squeeze, or a touch, or a buzz – it is pain! Based on learning theory, an action has to have a reaction – so the dog either experiences something pleasurable or something aversive in order to learn what to do/not to do in that situation – so, if these examples of collars didn’t cause pain, they would be totally ineffective, because they certainly aren’t causing pleasure. Therefore, dog sees other friendly dog, tries to greet, experiences awful pain, learns that other dogs equal pain. It’s that simple folks – your dog has now learned that other dogs are something to avoid and acts out in order to keep that other dog away from him. Moral of the story – these collars are not to be used!

What can you use? If your dog is small or not a strong puller, you’ll be fine with a flat collar or martingale (for dogs with large necks and smaller heads, like Greyhounds, to prevent the dog from slipping the collar). Larger, stronger dogs can be fitted with one of these:

EZ Walk harnesses, clip at the sternum (the pointy bone at the center of the dog’s chest, beneath the chin), and when the dog pulls forward, he has no choice but to turn towards the other end of the leash (that’s you by the way!). I use these harnesses frequently in training – they are humane, smart and extremely effective. If you purchase one, make sure that it fits tightly (so that the front clip doesn’t slide around onto the dog’s shoulder, rendering it ineffective), and consider whether or not your dog is simply a dog who pulls forward, or if he is a dog who pulls forward with his nose to the ground. If he’s a sniffer, you’ll want a head harness.

Head Harnesses by brand name are known as Haltis or Gentle Leaders. My personal preference is the Halti because it tends to fit better, isn’t left snug to the muzzle when the leash is relaxed, and has a safety clip which attaches the harness to your dog’s collar in case he slips out of it. A head harness has the same effect as the EZ Walk harness –pressure on the leash will cause your dog to have no choice but to turn towards you. They are especially effective on dogs who require more head control, such as a hound breed or terrier breed who tend to be constantly sniffing the ground. My only real caution in using a head harness is to minimize corrections – leash corrections are rarely effective in any situation, but on a head halter they can be dangerous and cause damage to your dog’s neck or spinal cord. I’d also caution you about other modifications to the head harness – the safest ones clip below the muzzle, and some other variations clip behind the head, at the throat etc., and can be harmful and dangerous to use, let alone totally uncommunicative (meaning because it doesn’t communicate a message via the muzzle, they are simply very annoying for the dog and cause irriation or the dog to shut down – meaning he just stands there emotionless, which is a very sad sight to see).

And remember, these equipment options should only be needed during the training period – they are not intended to be used for the lifetime of your dog, and rather should be used to assist you in training your dog to walk to heel. When choosing equipment, always consider whether your dog will learn by calmly reinforced methods, or by inflicting pain. After all, it really does come down to just two choices!

One last comment about teaching a dog to walk to heel – they will not learn this if they are walking on a retractable leash. In fact, the dog will often become more confused – ‘why can I sometimes walk way ahead, and sometimes I can’t’? Retractables have their place for quick bathroom breaks in the yard, working with fearful dogs, or walking in an area where you need to keep your dog on leash but you’ve taught them to ‘go long’, such as on a trail. Never walk a dog on a retractable leash with a head collar – this can cause very serious damage. Retractables are NOT for walking in public places such as a sidewalk, they are NOT for allowing your dog to greet a strange dog from 20 feet away from you, and they are certainly NOT for crossing the street while your tiny little dog is on the other side of the street before you’ve even crossed. In that situation, you better cross your fingers that the driver turning at that intersection sees the thin line of leash in front of his car, because while you’re on the other side of the intersection and the driver can see YOU, he can’t see your 16” dog in front of his car. Retractable leashes are great in the right application, but please, use them with caution, and only with an already well trained dog!

Share

How do you know that positive reinforcement works?

January 24th, 2012

The proof is in the pudding!! Where pudding is the positive reinforcement, of course!

Many owners question me about how positive reinforcement works, and if it works at all. In trying to move away from the old style ways of forcing compliance in a dog, or in other words, being the alpha, implementing positive reinforcement techniques seems to contradict everything that dominance model training has taught us.

Positive Reinforcement is a technique founded in canine learning theory. This can be explained in a very detailed, very complex way, but I’ve found that if we just watch our own dogs for a little while, you can see it demonstrated right there in front of you. Your dog can learn without it’s human counterpart “training” him – those actions that seem to just come naturally are typically learned behaviours, we just didn’t realize that we were teaching them.

Consider the more common complaints of dog owners; my dog won’t come when called and when I try and catch him he runs away, or my dog is always jumping up on people, or the famous ‘she’ll do anything if there’s food around!’ (and I still don’t understand why this falls in the complain department!). There are also the less noticeable behaviors, such as sitting near the kitchen counter when it’s doggy dinner time, running over to the door when it’s time to go out, or dropping the ball in front of you during a game of fetch. If you really think about it, most owners didn’t teach their dogs these things on purpose – it just happens. But the dog has actually received positive reinforcement for each of these behaviours, which is why she does them reliably.

It is in these observations that I see the simplicity in learning theory – dogs will most always do what gets them what they want (sorry to burst your bubble – but they’re not doing it to please YOU!), and they will take the easiest route to get to what they want. Through trial and error, they determine what behaviours are most likely to grant them positive results. Simple as that! The key there is ‘most likely to’ – meaning that the desired result may not happen 100% of the time, but it does happen at least 51% of the time. Dogs are smart enough to do that math, and it applies to everything they learn in life – from humans, from other dogs, and from their general environment.

Here is the how and what of the above noted learning experiences:
• Poor recall – he doesn’t come when called and runs away when you try to catch him. Dogs love to play chase – he has learned that when you say Come, lean forward, then begin to approach him, you are initiating a very fun game of chase. It’s a favoured game, and he can rely on you to chase him after that sequence of events. Often, this happens at the park, and that is because he has also learned that if he doesn’t play chase with you and just comes over to you, his time at the park will be over, and he’s not ready for that yet.
• Jumping up on people – inevitably, if your dog jumps up, the person she jumps on, or you, will give her some form of attention (even if it’s ‘negative’ attention). She has learned that jumping up gets attention, and that staying quiet on the floor gets NO attention. Dogs are social creatures, and they want to interact (and smell what you’ve been eating!), so if sitting quietly gets them no interaction, and jumping always does get them interaction, they have learned that jumping works best.
• He’ll do anything when there’s food around – quite frankly, this is a positive thing! But, the aspect of learning is this – if owner has food (especially treats, which the dog knows by scent and history, are for him) it’s very likely that if he complies with the request and complies quickly, the treat will be given. This is the foundation of positive reinforcement (though we don’t always use food).
• Sitting near the counter at doggy dinner time – that one’s easy!! The dog has learned that certain cues (picking up the bowl, opening the food etc.) will result in being fed very soon. The closer she is to the food, the more quickly she’ll be fed. This one can be broken down even more, as it involves the skipping of cues. As a pup, before the cues became engrained, you would likely call your pup to the kitchen (or feeding area) once the food has been prepped. Now the adult dog has learned that they don’t have to wait to be called – once they hear that sound, some delicious food will be placed.
• Running to the door when it’s time to go out (or any consistent, natural behaviour your dog does to indicate that he needs to go outside to pee) – this often occurs after several behaviours have been tested out by the dog. Eventually, they find the one that gets your attention, and therefore they repeat this behaviour because when they do, it results in getting to go outside. Sometimes dogs aren’t so clear about their intentions, and the reward of going out happens by human coincidence. For example, my own dog has taught me that he needs to go out when he sits near me but with his back to me. It’s likely that this behaviour began to work for him because it’s an odd behaviour that caught my attention – though for a few weeks, it resulted in a list of questions starting with “do you want….??”. But now that he knows I’ve figured it out, he sits backwards reliably when it’s time to go.
• Dropping the ball in front of you during fetch – this typically comes quickly to the natural retriever, but the opposite (NOT dropping the ball) is also inadvertently taught by the owner. Dogs who regularly play fetch learn very quickly that the sooner they drop the ball, the sooner we will pick it up and throw it for her. In fact, I had one client who often played fetch while chatting about his day with his wife, and was slow in noticing the dropped ball. The dog learned not to just drop the ball, but to bounce off his owner’s chest with his two front feet, and then drop the ball. This was not a desirable behaviour for the owner, but for the dog, it was very effective in getting him what he wanted quickly – the ball was thrown right away. Dogs who refuse to drop balls often do so because it is at least 51% likely that the ball will be taken away from them – therefore, they have learned that it is in their better interest to keep the ball. These dogs are also often very good at initiating chase!! The dog who believes that it’s likely that his owner will pick up a dropped ball and immediately throw it is the dog who learns to drop the ball without being asked to.

So, when you wonder why some trainers are so emphatic about using reinforcement techniques when teaching your dog, it is because it works!!! The hard part can sometimes figuring out what that enforcement should be, and at what point in the behavior to use it. Ultimately, it all comes down to showing the dog that the behaviour we want will very likely be adequately reinforced the majority of the time. We teach the dog what works for them, and what works for us!

Share

How to be Your Dog’s Leader

November 5th, 2011

For all intents and purposes, I am a positive based trainer. I quite often find myself explaining to my clients positive methods for training a dog – but I was asked a question yesterday that I thought was extremely relevant for today’s dog owner, and one I don’t find myself specifically addressing: How I can be my dog’s leader if I can’t correct him?

I’ll begin by addressing this word ‘leader’. This is a common term due to pop culture, television based training, so I don’t want to continue without first clearing up my opinion on this label. Leader can mean many things – from the person at the front of a group, to the teacher you’ll never forget, to Hitler who led the Nazis. Leader can be implicated in both positive and aversive training, and given my stance on training, I’d like it to be used in the former sense. A leader should be a person who leads a dog to make appropriate decisions in any given situation, and that leader should guide that dog to make these decisions using clear and concise cues with appropriate feedback. Being the leader does not require you to be ‘the boss’ or ‘the alpha’ – it simply requires you to be the person whom your dog respects and defers to. That respect should be acquired through love and understanding, not through fear.

Studies show that the average dog learns and thinks at the same level as a three year old child. Though dogs are certainly not human, we can aptly use this comparison for the purpose of defining leadership. Say, for example, your three year old child is afraid of dogs. Explaining theories of body language, breed type, situational approaches and specific dog behaviour is not an option – a three year old doesn’t yet have the ability to rationalize and apply these theories. So, positive based training would dictate that in the presence of a dog, you should kneel calmly beside your child, tell them nice things about the dog, and if they relax or even reach out to gently touch the dog, you’d reward the child with a “good girl”, or even a popsicle. If we were to use the more popular, televised version of training, we’d grab the child by the arm firmly, march them up to the dog and force their hand onto the dog. If the child balks (which she likely would), you should firmly shake the child’s arm which you are grasping and repeat the behaviour until the child succumbs and touches the dog. For option A, the next time your child sees a dog, she will be less afraid than the last time because her experience with the dog was a positive one. For option B, it’s pretty likely your child will grow to hate dogs, and possibly be afraid of you as a parent – hopefully, not a result any parent is looking for. In both cases, the parent has been the child’s “leader”, but in only one is the parent a good leader.

Using positive training does not eliminate the possibility that you will be your dog’s leader; in fact in my opinion, it increases that likelihood. It also does not mean that your dog can do whatever he wants without consequences – it simply means that consequences do not need to be harmful or aversive. Ian Dunbar, the forefather of positive training, once said that repeated correction, (i.e. a leash jerk, that is not immediately effective, meaning one leash jerk should result in your dog walking to heel right away without repeating the behaviour of pulling) that is repeated without the desired effect then becomes harassment or abuse. So, if you’re walking a dog on leash and constant leash corrections are required without resulting in the dog learning to walk to heel, then by Dunbar’s theory you are harassing or abusing your dog. A strong statement, but when you really think about it, a true one.

This doesn’t mean a dog should pull you down the street going whichever direction he chooses. You are, after all, the leader – and this would not be a reasonable way to exercise your dog. But to be a good leader, you need to teach your dog (because he doesn’t speak English or naturally know he’s supposed to walk beside you and ignore all the stimulus going on around him that his birthright tells him he should be sticking his nose in) to walk calmly alongside you, and you can do so without harsh corrections. There are many ways – such as changing direction frequently, carrying a food treat or toy, using equipment like and EZ Walk or a Halti. And most importantly, rewarding him when he IS doing it properly!!! These tv personalities who teach ‘leadership’ are so quick to punish, yet rarely praise. The greatest leaders of our time – Obama, Ghandi, even Oprah, have all used positive based communication to get a message across, to teach and to lead, their audience. The most horrific leaders have used violence, force and manipulation.

Please – be a leader for your dog! He will love you more for it – if you choose to be a good leader. Every time you ask him to do something, and he does it, tell him he’s a good boy, or say thank you!! And if he doesn’t do it, think about whether your next step is going to be harmful to him, or going to be useful in teaching a behaviour he will gladly repeat again. My next blog will be about having fun with training . I believe in making it fun because that’s what dogs ultimately want out of life – a good time!! So if you can make them WANT to listen to you because it’s fun, wouldn’t that just be so much easier? And at the end of the day – isn’t that the way you’d want to teach your three your old to train your dog?

Share

The Toby Interviews – Part One

October 29th, 2011

Here at The Dog’s Assistant, although many of our cases are very serious, I try to make learning as fun as possible for both my client and their dog. The goal of my blogs is to teach, and I thought a cool way to teach you some new techniques would be to do it through the eyes of my dog – Toby. Though any trainer worth their salt will tell you how destructive it can be to anthropomorphize (aka humanize) your dog, sometimes it’s just downright hilarious to do so – and when you have a Boxer like Toby, you just can’t help yourself sometimes!! My husband Shawn and I are well known for giving a voice to Toby (think Ashton Kutcher’s character on That 70’s Show, but with a lisp), and I hope that this introduction to him will help you to hear him through our ears!

Here’s hoping you enjoy the first segment of “The Toby Interviews”!! Here you will get to know him, and in future segments, he’ll let us in on the secrets of being a well behaved, happy & healthy dog!

Tobias “Lemon” Garven – The Interviews – Part One

As you may have noticed, Toby Garven, also known to his fans as “Lemon”, has been hot on the nightclub and college scene this fall. While out on the town with his humans, several members of the pupperazzi have snapped pics of Lemon in the driver’s seat of his limousine, ready to take off for another wild night of goofing off and scavenging. Lemon has created quite the commotion, and along with the ever elusive pupperazzi, his humans have reported seeing his fans gathered around his vehicle, readily snapping photos with their smart phones of the Champion of Handsome. We at The Dog’s Assistant caught up with Lemon during one of his few moments available between photo shoots and all-night parties. Here’s what he had to say:

TDA: Do you prefer to be called Lemon, or Tobias?

TLG: Well, you know, I’m a pretty respectable guy, so most of the time I go by Toby. But, every once in a while, you gotta relax a little, you know? So, if I’m goofing off with my buddies or checking out a red carpet, Lemon’s cool with me.

TDA: How did you get the nickname Lemon?

TLG: I like to live life hard and fast. You know, make the most of my runs, my workouts. Like any tough guy, you gotta take a few hits every once in a while. I’m known on the street for being a bit of a go getter, and when you go as fast as I do, you’re bound to run into a stumbling block, like a tree or a pole, every once in a while. So that outlook on life kinda led me to be known for a guy who has a few bumps and bruises. Plus, when you party hard, it can be tough on such an athletic body, you know, getting into too much garbage (revealing later he has a soft spot for his mother’s home made garbage) so I can develop an allergy here or there. Lemons are cool though, you know. I like to think it means people find me refreshing.

TDA: How do you like to stay in shape?

TLG: My physique is very important to me. I like to show off my muscles, you know, in case I run into a sweet Chocolate Lab or something. I work out every day, do some circuit training in the living room, regular ball work in the yard. And I try to get a cross country run in at least three times a week. Plus I like to get in as much protein as I can. I would say that ultimately, it’s my beauty sleep that really finishes me off.

TDA: Do you have any weaknesses when it comes to maintaining that model-like body?

TLG: No!!!! The pupparazzi is spreading lies about me having some addiction to Cheezies, which I’d like to set the record straight right now that if I hear that again I’m a go Rawr on them!! I’ll admit, I’ve binged out on Cheezies in the past, but I completed a 12 step program, and now I have my life on the right track. I like to indulge in a little garbage here and there, but you know, only the organic stuff.

TDA: What’s on your iPod these days?

TLG: Only one thing honey – Snoop Dogg!

TDA: We’ve heard that you’re secretly involved with a Chocolate Lab – Misha, to be exact. Is this true?

TLG: That’s what they’re saying down at the park, and ya, we been out a few times. She can be pretty down to business though, and I’m really a pretty sensitive dude, so I’m not gonna hang around waitin’ for her to toss the ball.

TDA: How’s your relationship with your humans?

TLG: I gotta say, they’re pretty cool. I got my own chef – she’s called Mom – and she whips up a pretty mean veggie and fish stew. I get to go a few play rounds with my accountant – he’s called Dad – so it’s good for relieving tension. I got a cool room, gives me privacy to work on my biography. And you know, I can get Mom to throw in a DVD for me every once in a while. I’m pretty into Bolt, so that’s cool after a long photo session, or when I’m tired out after I’ve been chilling with my dogs at the park. It’s a pretty sweet deal all in all.

TDA: Do you think you have something to offer the world as far as advice for other dogs?

TLG: Ya, I have to say that my humans really helped me turn my life around. Before I had no goals in life, no self discipline. My humans taught me that you gotta be dedicated to the ones you love, and if you make an effort to understand and respect each other, life’s just so much easier. Plus, I get more treats that way, and my humans and I get to go to so many more cool places ‘cause they’re not so worried about the pupparazzi catching me doing something wild. Most importantly, it’s better for my career if I steer clear of the crazy life I used to lead.

Watch for Part Two of the Toby Interviews in coming weeks! Toby talks to TDA about nutrition, how his humans communicate, and how to win the hearts of the dogs at the park!

Share

Loving a Dog

August 8th, 2011

Toby in Killarney

Owning a dog, responsibly, is much like parenting – we raise them, care for them, teach them, and love them as though our hearts may burst. Like parents, we are concerned for their well being, their future, their health and what friends they keep. We are often also beside ourselves with worry and frustration when we feel we’ve gone wrong in their upbringing; when they have a fight at the dog park, destroy a lamp shade, or jump up on your mother-in-law’s Sunday best – and as a behaviour consultant, it is often I who picks up the pieces of a distraught doggie parent. But, though we may be more consumed by their shortfalls, it’s important to recognize why we go through it at all, why we love them to begin with. More often than not, it’s when they’re gone from this world that we really sit down and think about what made our hearts swell; so before that time comes, Toby, this is why I love you.

I love you because, without being taught to do so, you always come to find me and say thank you for every meal before cleaning up those last few pieces of dinner.

I love you because you can’t pass a sprinkler, hose or splash pad without trying to devour every last drop of water with the intensity of fox after a rabbit – and it always makes me laugh.

I love you because you communicate so well the intentions of another dog. I don’t doubt your opinion of my canine clients for a moment, and you are the best partner a trainer could ever ask for.

I love you because you always know just how much to bark when a stranger approaches me when we’re on our late night walks, or when we’re waiting in the car for your Daddy while he finishes work and someone gets too close to our car.

I love you because when I tell you it’s bedtime, and every night you try to bring a toy, you raise your head and whack it on the floor when I tell you to leave it. It’s so human like and hilarious, and a smile before bed always leads to good dreams.

I love you because you have such a wonderful sense of humour, and no matter how busy, sad or frustrating my day has been, you always make me laugh.

I love you because you’ve grown into such a kind, responsive, empathetic dog who always does the right thing at the right time, because you’re always in the right place and offer your paw just when I need it, and because the way you look at me gives me the strength to face each day.

I love you because you’re absolutely perfect for ME, and because you know I’m perfect for YOU.

Share